Airplane engines are expensive machines that need care even when they're sitting still. Engines can suffer significant damage from corrosion in as little as 30 days of inactivity. The aircraft engine preservation procedure protects your investment by creating a barrier against moisture, rust, and internal wear during periods when your plane isn't flying.
A properly preserved engine can sit safely for months or even years without damage, while an unprotected one can develop problems that cost thousands of dollars to fix. Understanding how to maintain an aircraft starts with knowing how to protect it during downtime. Let's look at why engine preservation matters and exactly what steps you need to follow.
Key Takeaways
The aircraft engine preservation procedure involves draining fluids, adding protective oils, sealing openings with plugs and covers, placing desiccant bags inside to absorb humidity, and following your maintenance manual guidelines. This process prevents corrosion and deterioration by keeping moisture and air away from internal parts. Most engines need preservation after 30 days of being inactive, and the importance of engine preservation becomes clear when you consider repair costs.
| Key Takeaway | Details |
| When to preserve | After 30 days of inactivity or before storage for an extended period |
| Main enemies | Moisture, humidity, and corrosive elements that cause rust |
| Basic steps | Drain fluids, add preservation fluid, seal openings, add desiccant bags inside |
| Who does it | Certified technician or operator following the manual |
| Cost vs. benefit | Small preservation cost prevents expensive overhaul repairs |
Why Aircraft Engines Can Get Damaged When Not Flying
You might think an airplane sitting quietly in a hangar is perfectly safe, but the truth is different. When an aircraft engine stops running, it faces dangers that don't exist during normal flight. The oil system stops moving, which means protective lubrication no longer coats internal surfaces. Without this oil coating, metal parts become exposed to air and moisture.
Humidity is one of the biggest problems for inactive engines. Water vapor in the air finds its way into every opening and settles on cold metal surfaces. When warm, moist air meets cool engine parts, condensation forms just like water droplets on a cold glass of lemonade. This water sits on bare metal and starts the corrosion process almost immediately.
Here's what makes aviation engines especially vulnerable:
- Metal parts expand and contract with temperature changes, creating tiny spaces where moisture can enter
- The fuel system contains residual fuel that breaks down and becomes acidic over time
- Exhaust ports and intake openings allow humid air to flow directly into the engine
- The oil system contains moisture from combustion that settles when the engine isn't running
- Internal surfaces lose their protective oil coating within days of shutdown
Think about what happens inside the engine during normal operation. Hot engine oil circulates constantly, keeping everything coated and protected. When you shut down, that oil drains down into the sump, leaving cylinder walls, valve stems, and other internal components exposed. Even a small amount of humidity in the air can start rust forming on these bare surfaces.
The fuel line and fuel system face their own challenges. Modern fuel contains ethanol, which attracts water. As fuel sits idle, it can separate and form a layer of water at the bottom of tanks and lines. This water then corrodes metal components from the inside out. The calendar time vs flight time factor matters because an engine sitting for months faces more risk than one flying regularly, even if both have the same total hours.
Manufacturers like Pratt and Whitney have studied this problem extensively. Their research shows that engines can develop serious deterioration in surprisingly short periods. A contaminant as simple as dust or pollen can hold moisture against metal surfaces, speeding up the rust process. The nozzle openings in fuel injectors are particularly vulnerable because they're small and hard to inspect without special tools.
When Engine Preservation Is Needed
Knowing when to start preservation procedures can save you from expensive repairs later. The general rule in engine maintenance is simple: if your engine will sit for more than 30 days without running, it needs preservation. But several specific situations require attention even sooner.
Maintaining vintage aircraft engines requires extra care because older designs often lack modern protective coatings. Your maintenance manual provides specific timelines, but here are the common scenarios:
Standard preservation timeframes:
- 30 days or more without operation
- Seasonal storage during winter months
- Long-term parking while you're away
- Storage for an extended period before sale
- After major maintenance when the engine won't start immediately
Different manufacturers have slightly different requirements. Check your specific manual because some engines need preservation after just 21 days of inactivity. The operator needs to track the last run date carefully. Many pilots write the date on a tag and attach it to the propeller or control yoke as a reminder.
Climate plays a huge role in timing. If you live in a humid coastal area, your engine faces more risk than one stored in a dry desert climate. A humidity indicator card placed near the engine can help you monitor conditions. These cards change color when humidity level rises above safe limits, giving you an early warning.
Special situations requiring immediate preservation:
- Engine shutdown after water ingestion or flooding
- Extended maintenance periods with the engine apart
- Preparing an aircraft for transport or shipping
- Pre-overhaul storage while waiting for parts
- Seasonal aircraft that only fly during specific months
Some owners and operators choose to preserve engines even for shorter periods if they know weather conditions will be particularly humid. This extra precaution costs little but provides significant protection. The goal is to prevent any situation where moisture can attack bare metal surfaces inside the engine.
Your preservation procedures should start the moment you know the engine will be sitting idle. Waiting until day 29 means the engine has already been exposed to corrosive conditions for nearly a month. Early preservation gives better protection and peace of mind. The advantages and disadvantages of engine overhaul become clear when you compare the cost of preservation to the cost of fixing corrosion damage.
What Happens If an Engine Is Not Preserved?
Skipping proper preservation might seem like a time-saver, but the consequences can be severe and expensive. An unpreserved engine sitting inactive for just a few months can develop problems that require thousands of dollars to fix. The damage starts small but grows quickly.
Corrosion is the most common and destructive problem. Rust forms on cylinder walls first because these large, flat surfaces offer perfect spots for moisture to settle. Once rust starts, it creates a rough surface that scrapes against piston rings every time the engine tries to start. This scraping damages both the cylinder walls and the rings themselves.
Here's the progression of damage in an unprotected engine:
- Week 1-2: Surface moisture begins collecting on internal parts
- Week 3-4: Light surface rust appears on cylinder walls and valve stems
- Month 2-3: Rust deepens and spreads to bearings and cam lobes
- Month 4-6: Corrosion causes pitting and permanent surface damage
- Month 6+: Major deterioration requiring overhaul or replacement
The fuel system suffers its own set of problems. Old fuel breaks down and leaves behind varnish and gum deposits. These sticky residues plug up tiny passages in carburetors and fuel injectors. The fuel line can develop internal corrosion from water contamination. Cleaning or replacing these components costs hundreds to thousands of dollars.
Your oil system faces challenges too. Engine oil contains acids from combustion. When the engine sits idle, these acids don't get neutralized by heat and circulation. Instead, they sit in contact with metal parts, slowly eating away at bearings and cam surfaces. The oil pump can develop corrosion on its gears and housing, reducing its effectiveness or causing complete failure on engine start.
Internal bearings are particularly vulnerable. These precision parts need constant lubrication to function properly. Without oil coating, even light humidity can cause surface rust. When you try to start the engine later, these rusty bearings create excessive friction and wear. In severe cases, they can seize completely, causing catastrophic engine failure.
Real costs of skipping preservation:
- Cylinder replacement: $3,000-$5,000 per cylinder
- Complete overhaul due to corrosion: $25,000-$45,000
- Fuel system cleaning and parts: $1,500-$3,000
- Bearing replacement: $2,000-$4,000
- Lost aircraft value due to corrosion history: 10-20% of market price
The new vs overhauled vs rebuild engines comparison becomes relevant when corrosion damage is severe enough that repair isn't economical. At that point, you're looking at major expenses that proper preservation would have prevented entirely.
Some operators think they can avoid these problems by running the engine briefly every few weeks. This actually makes things worse! Short ground runs don't get the engine hot enough to burn off moisture. Instead, they create more condensation inside the engine and spread contaminant throughout the oil system. The engine needs to reach full operating temperature and run for at least 30 minutes to properly dry out internal parts. If you can't fly the plane, preservation is the better choice.
Insurance companies and potential buyers pay attention to preservation history too. An aircraft with proper preservation records maintains its value much better than one with gaps in care. What logbook gaps do to a Cessna 172's value shows how documentation matters when selling.
Aircraft Engine Preservation Steps You Should Follow
The aircraft engine preservation process follows a specific sequence that protects every critical system. While different engine manufacturers have slight variations, the core steps remain consistent. Always consult your engine maintenance manual for model-specific requirements, but here's the detailed process that applies to most piston aviation engines.
Step 1: Final Flight or Ground Run
Before preservation begins, you need to run the engine one last time. This final run serves several important purposes. It circulates fresh engine oil throughout the system, brings everything up to operating temperature, and burns off any existing moisture inside the engine inside.
Schedule your preservation work right after a normal flight. If you must do a ground run instead, make sure the engine reaches at least 180°F oil temperature and runs for a minimum of 30 minutes. This heat drives out water vapor and ensures all internal parts get coated with hot oil.
Step 2: Oil System Treatment
The oil system needs special attention because it's your primary corrosion prevention tool. Here's the exact sequence:
Start by preparing your preservation fluid. You'll need oil that meets MIL-C-6529 Type II specification or your manufacturer's approved alternative. This special corrosion prevention compound contains additives that create a protective film on metal surfaces.
- Warm the engine to operating temperature
- Drain the oil completely from the sump while still warm (hot oil flows better and carries out more contaminant)
- Remove and replace the oil filter with a new one
- Add the preservation fluid through the oil filler opening
- For most engines, use the same quantity as normal operating oil capacity
Run the engine again after adding the preservation oil. This step is critical because it circulates the protective oil throughout the entire system. Run at 1,200-1,500 RPM for 15-20 minutes. You want this special oil coating every bearing, cam lobe, cylinder wall, and valve stem. The oil pump pushes the fluid through every passage and gallery in the engine.
Step 3: Fuel System Preservation
The fuel system preservation process prevents varnish buildup and internal corrosion. Different engine types require different approaches, so check with a qualified technician or your manual.
For most installations, you'll start by purging the existing fuel from the system:
- Run the engine until it stops from fuel starvation (this empties the carburetor or fuel injection system)
- Drain all fuel from tanks, lines, and gascolator
- Remove fuel nozzle assemblies if your manual requires it
- Inspect and clean fuel screens
Some manufacturers recommend filling the fuel system with preservation oil or leaving it completely dry. Whitney Canada and other turbine engine makers have specific fuel system preservation procedures that differ from piston engines. Your engine maintenance manual provides the exact method for your model.
Step 4: Cylinder and Internal Protection
Protecting cylinder walls and other internal components requires getting preservation fluid directly onto these surfaces. This step takes some effort but provides critical protection.
Remove all spark plugs from each cylinder. With the plugs out, you can access the inside of each combustion chamber. Using a spray bottle or special preservation spray gun, coat the inside of each cylinder thoroughly with preservation oil.
Here's the detailed process:
- Remove top and bottom spark plugs from all cylinders
- Rotate the propeller to bring each piston to the bottom of its stroke
- Spray preservation fluid generously into each cylinder through the spark plug holes
- Rotate the engine several complete revolutions by hand to spread the oil
- Leave pistons positioned away from top dead center to prevent ring sticking
- Install preservation spark plugs or cover openings with proper plugs
The hand rotation distributes oil across cylinder walls and lubricates valve stems. Don't rush this step. Take time to ensure complete coverage of all internal parts.
Step 5: Seal All Engine Openings
Now comes the task to seal all engine openings against outside air and moisture. Every opening needs proper sealing to create a protective barrier.
Critical areas to seal:
- Intake: Install an intake plug or cover the air filter opening completely
- Exhaust: Fit proper exhaust plug devices to all exhaust ports
- Breather: Cap or plug the crankcase breather tube
- Oil filler: Ensure the oil filler cap is tight and properly seated
- Fuel vents: Seal fuel tank vents with approved caps or plugs
Each seal must be tight and complete. Even small gaps allow humid air to enter. Use proper preservation plugs designed for aircraft maintenance, not improvised covers. These professional plugs often include bright warning streamers so you don't forget to remove them before the next engine start.
Step 6: Add Desiccant Protection
Desiccant bags provide the final layer of protection against humidity. These small packages contain chemicals that actively absorb moisture from the air inside the sealed engine.
Place desiccant bags inside the engine through the intake or other large openings before final sealing. Most engines need 3-6 bags depending on displacement. Position them where air can circulate around them but they won't fall into moving parts.
Add desiccant bags that include humidity indicator cards. These cards show you at a glance if the desiccant bags are still working. The cards change color from blue to pink when they become saturated with moisture. Check these indicator cards monthly. When they show pink, the bags inside need replacement.
Attach at least one humidity indicator card where you can see it without opening the engine. This lets you monitor conditions without breaking the protective seal you've created. Place desiccant bags inside the engine compartment around the engine itself for additional protection.
Step 7: External Protection
The engine inside is now protected, but external surfaces need attention too. Apply a light coating of protective oil or wax to external metal parts. This prevents surface rust on accessories, brackets, and the engine case exterior.
Cover the entire engine and aircraft with proper covers. These covers prevent moisture accumulation and protect against dust and debris. Good aircraft maintenance includes checking covers periodically to ensure they're still in place and not collecting water.
Step 8: Documentation
Record everything you've done. Write down the preservation date, products used, and the technician who performed the work. This documentation proves proper preservation for insurance, resale value, and your own maintenance tracking.
Include these details in the logbook:
- Date of preservation
- Type and quantity of preservation fluid used
- Position of pistons after preservation
- Number and location of desiccant bags inside the engine
- Expected storage for an extended period duration
- Next inspection or de-preservation due date
This paperwork becomes part of the aircraft's permanent record. Future owners and operators need this information if the aircraft changes hands while still preserved and stored.
Helpful Tips to Make Preservation Last Longer
Good preservation can last 12-24 months if done correctly, but several factors affect its effectiveness. These tips help extend protection and ensure your engine stays safe during inactivity.
Monitor Humidity Levels Regularly
Check your humidity indicator cards at least monthly. Don't wait for them to turn completely pink. Replace desiccant bags when indicators show they're 50-75% saturated. This proactive approach maintains consistent protection.
Keep a simple log sheet attached to the aircraft. Note the date and condition of indicators each time you check. This creates a pattern that helps you predict when bags inside will need replacement. High humidity level environments require more frequent changes than dry climates.
Control Storage Environment
Where you store the aircraft matters as much as how you preserve the engine. A climate-controlled hangar provides the best protection. If that's not possible, choose a location with these characteristics:
- Consistent temperature (avoid locations with extreme daily swings)
- Low natural humidity (desert climates are ideal)
- Good air circulation around the aircraft
- Protection from direct sunlight and weather
- Secure location to prevent moisture intrusion from leaks
Even well-preserved and stored engines suffer if the overall environment is poor. A leaky hangar roof or duct work that channels humid air directly onto the aircraft defeats your preservation efforts.
Inspect Seals and Covers
The seal integrity of your preservation system degrades over time. Monthly inspections catch problems before they become serious. Check each plug and cover to ensure it's still properly fitted. Look for:
- Loose or missing plug covers on intake and exhaust openings
- Deteriorated rubber seals on caps and plugs
- Damage to protective covers from animals or weather
- Signs of contamination or moisture entry
- Proper positioning of warning streamers
Animals sometimes nest in or around aircraft. They can dislodge covers and create openings for moisture entry. Birds, mice, and insects all pose risks to stored aircraft. Regular checks help catch and fix these problems quickly.
Rotate the Propeller Periodically
Some owners and operators choose to rotate the propeller by hand every 30-60 days during storage for an extended period. This spreads preservation fluid to new areas and prevents parts from seating in one position too long.
Here's how to do it safely:
- Ensure the ignition is completely OFF and magnetos are grounded
- Remove propeller warning locks if installed
- Rotate the propeller slowly by hand through 3-4 complete revolutions
- Reposition to a new location (not on compression stroke)
- Check that all seal devices remain in place after rotation
Never do this alone. Have someone watch to ensure your safety. Be aware that even a preserved engine can create compression that makes rotation difficult. The importance of engine preservation includes maintaining these precaution measures throughout storage.
Consider Climate-Specific Strategies
Your local climate determines how aggressive your preservation strategy needs to be. Coastal areas with salt air require extra attention. The combination of humidity and salt creates an especially corrosive environment.
Climate-specific tips:
- Coastal storage: Use additional desiccant bags and check indicators weekly
- Desert storage: Focus on sealing against dust and contaminant entry
- Cold climates: Protect against freeze-thaw cycles that create condensation
- Tropical areas: Maximum desiccant usage and frequent inspections
Aircraft sitting idle in harsh climates need more frequent de-preservation and re-preservation cycles. Some experts recommend full de-preservation, inspection, and re-preservation every 6 months in coastal or tropical environments.
Plan for De-Preservation Timing
Schedule your de-preservation work carefully. Don't wait until the day before you want to fly. The process takes several hours, and you may discover issues that need attention. Plan to de-preserve at least 2-3 days before the intended engine is to fly date.
The de-preservation process includes:
- Removing all desiccant bags inside the engine
- Removing plugs and covers from all openings
- Drain the oil again (even preserved oil should be replaced before flight)
- Install fresh oil filter and regular engine oil
- Remove the engine preservation plugs from cylinders and install regular spark plugs
- Service the fuel system with fresh fuel
- Perform a thorough pre-flight inspection
- Conduct a careful engine start and ground run
Never skip the oil change during de-preservation. Preservation fluid isn't designed for actual operation. It lacks the proper additives for normal flight loads. Using it for flight operation will lead to corrosion and wear.
Keep Detailed Records
Beyond the basic logbook entry, maintain a separate preservation record sheet. Include photos of the preserved engine showing sealed openings and desiccant placement. These photos help you remember the exact configuration and prove proper preservation to potential buyers.
Your records help with pre-buy inspections if you decide to sell. Buyers and their inspectors want to see complete preservation documentation. This transparency builds confidence and can justify a higher sale price compared to aircraft with unpreserved storage history.
Work with Qualified Technicians
While owners and operators can perform basic preservation under supervision, complex engines benefit from professional help. A qualified technician knows the specific requirements for your engine model and can spot potential issues before they become problems.
The cost of professional preservation is modest compared to the protection it provides. A technician typically charges 2-4 hours of labor plus materials. This investment protects an engine worth tens of thousands of dollars. When to overhaul an aircraft engine depends partly on how well it's been maintained and preserved during its life.
Consider Partial Preservation for Shorter Periods
If your inactivity will only last 30-60 days, some operators choose partial preservation. This abbreviated process includes:
- Adding preservation fluid to the oil system
- Installing desiccant bags inside key openings
- Sealing intake and exhaust
- Basic external protection
This approach takes less time than full preservation and works well for scheduled maintenance periods or seasonal breaks. However, for anything longer than 60 days, full preservation provides better protection.
Address Issues Before Preservation
Don't preserve an engine with existing problems. If you notice oil leaks, unusual consumption, or other issues, address them before preservation. Preserving a damaged engine doesn't fix the damage—it just delays dealing with it.
Common issues to fix prior to storing:
- Oil leaks from gaskets or seals
- Fuel system leaks or malfunctions
- Excessive oil consumption
- Unusual engine sounds or vibration
- Overdue scheduled maintenance items
The new vs used aircraft markets show that properly maintained aircraft hold value better. This includes proper preservation during ownership.
Plan for Future Use
Think about your intended future use when choosing preservation methods. If you know you'll return the engine is to fly in three months, you might use lighter preservation than for unknown storage duration. However, always err on the side of better protection. It's easier to de-preserve an over-protected engine than to repair one that wasn't protected enough.
Consider your personal schedule and the risk of plans changing. Life happens, and what starts as two months of storage can easily become six. Better preservation from the start gives you flexibility without worry.
Conclusion
Taking care of your aircraft engine during periods of inactivity protects your investment and ensures safe, reliable operation when you're ready to fly again. The aircraft engine preservation procedure isn't complicated, but it does require attention to detail and following the right steps. From treating the oil system with preservation fluid to sealing openings and adding desiccant bags inside, each step plays an important role in preventing corrosion and deterioration. The small cost of proper preservation today prevents expensive repairs tomorrow. Your engine will thank you with years of reliable service, and you'll maintain the aircraft's value for when you're ready to sell or trade.
Ready to buy or sell an aircraft? Flying411 connects buyers and sellers in the general aviation market, helping you find the right aircraft or the right buyer for your plane. Browse listings of well-maintained aircraft with complete maintenance histories, or list your aircraft to reach serious buyers who understand the value of proper preservation and care.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I preserve my aircraft engine myself, or do I need a licensed mechanic?
You can perform basic preservation tasks yourself under FAA rules, but complex procedures require supervision or completion by a certified mechanic. The work must be documented in the aircraft logbook by an appropriately rated person. Many owners do the physical work while a mechanic inspects and signs off the preservation. Always follow your specific engine manufacturer's procedures and consult your mechanic about legal requirements for your situation.
How long can an aircraft engine stay preserved before it needs to be de-preserved and re-preserved?
Most properly preserved engines can remain protected for 12-24 months, though manufacturers often recommend inspection and possible re-preservation at 12 months. The actual duration depends on storage conditions, climate, and how well the original preservation was performed. Engines stored in climate-controlled hangars in dry climates often last longer than those in humid or coastal environments. Check desiccant indicators monthly to monitor protection effectiveness.
What's the difference between preservation procedures for Lycoming and Continental engines?
Both manufacturers follow similar basic preservation principles, but specific procedures vary. Lycoming typically recommends their own preservation oil or approved alternatives, while Continental has specific requirements for cylinder treatment. Continental engines often need special attention to valve guides and rocker assemblies. Always consult your specific engine's maintenance manual rather than using generic procedures, as details like preservation fluid types and quantities differ between models.
Is it better to fly an engine periodically or preserve it for extended storage?
For periods longer than 30 days, proper preservation is better than periodic ground runs. Short ground runs don't heat the engine enough to eliminate moisture and actually create more condensation inside the engine. If you can fly the aircraft for at least 30 minutes and bring the oil to full operating temperature, monthly flights work well. Otherwise, preserve the engine properly and avoid partial warm-ups that cause more harm than good.
What happens if I buy an aircraft that was preserved but has no documentation of the preservation work?
Undocumented preservation presents risks because you don't know what products were used, when preservation occurred, or if it was done correctly. Before flying, you should have a mechanic perform a thorough inspection, remove all preservation materials, change the oil, and check for any corrosion that may have developed. Treat it as if preservation was never done. This inspection protects you from flying with preservation plugs still installed or using preservation oil not rated for flight operation.